My AirBNB Picks in France and Italy

PARIS: Carlo Ninchi’s Apartment



The 1950s building had no lift so I had to drag my luggage three floors up. My reward was a view of Karl Lagerfeld’s bookstore just down the street. At 20 sqm., the flat was tiny but well-planned, with storage discreetly tucked into the walls, and a sofa bed that can be turned into a double bed. A modern Boffi fan provided sufficient ventilation, assisted by tall windows on warm nights. The kitchenette had two induction hobs, which I never used; a toaster, where I warmed slices of baguette for breakfast; a coffee pod machine for my espresso (a box of Nespresso capsules was provided); and a personal refrigerator for my stash of cheeses and a small complimentary bottle of Champagne. There were heavy drapes to ensure a good night's rest.

The best thing about this place is its location. Turn a corner and you'll find the Louvre just across. You could get to and from the St. Germain de Pres metro in 10 minutes. This place is ideal for 2 people with medium luggage. There is no closet space so you'll have to keep your clothes in your luggage, which will eat up significant floor space. The condition of the place is not as pristine as shown in its AirBNB photos, but well-maintained overall.

AIX-EN-PROVENCE: Eric Perraud’s Flat



I could have stayed forever in Aix and part of the lure was staying at this apartment. Sure, I had things to complain about, such as the tiny toilet, the low showerhead in the bath and the low headroom in the mezzanine. But the place had a lived-in look that gave it character. The tall windows let in the sound of the church bell tolling the hour and a soft breeze that allowed my laundry to dry. It also offered a view of Aix’s red-tiled rooftops. The apartment was quiet but the minute I stepped out of the building, I was in one of the narrow, cobblestoned pedestrian lanes of Aix with charming restaurants and cafes in every cozy corner. With a quick right and left turns, I was in Aix’s grand central street, the Cours Mirabeau and the rotonde.



Mahe, the property manager, was very warm and welcoming. She gave me a tour of the place and gave me recommendations on where to eat. She made it a point to mention that there was a daily open-air market by the town hall, something I was very keen on checking out.

VENICE: Paolo Brunetti’s Casa Sofia



Paolo gave me very clear instructions on how to get to his apartment and, when I arrived, he was personally there to hand over the keys, show me his place and give me advice on interesting places to visit during my stay (all of which I was able to do, including visiting the Jewish ghetto!). He even helped me with my luggage, which I badly needed because his place was on the top floor (4th floor) with narrow stairs.



And his place? Wow. Plenty of space (80 sqm.) and character, with hardbound art books and a tasteful CD collection. The bed was very comfortable, the bathroom seemed new and the entire place was spotless. The apartment is equipped with air-conditioning, heating, TV and a washing machine. The double-paned windows completely shut off the noise from the busy street. I enjoyed opening them in the morning for some people-watching. The apartment overlooks Strada Nuova, which has plenty of shops, bars and restaurants. The location was perfect for me because I liked being in the middle of the action without getting caught up in the rumpus in Piazza San Marco and the Rialto. A 10-minute walk will get you to the Rialto Bridge. Just a few meters away, you can catch a vaporetto at the Ca’ d’Oro stop to take you to Piazza San Marco.

FLORENCE: Martina and Paola’s River-view Apartment



I wasn't able to meet Martina personally because she was in London but weeks prior to my trip, she sent me her mom Paola's number so that I could make arrangements regarding my arrival. I had a hard time reaching Paola through SMS but when I was finally able to talk to her on the phone, I liked her immediately. All the more so when I met her. She was very warm and welcoming.



My heart melted the minute I saw the apartment. It was the loveliest AirBNB I had ever stayed in. The interiors were so tastefully done. It was spacious, very clean, and well equipped, as if the owners had anticipated all I'll need during my vacation. And when I stepped onto the balcony, I had a view of the bridge over Arno River. I took a cab from Santa Maria Novella train station because it was drizzling when I arrived. It was so near that I only had to pay 8.50 euros.



I loved the location. There was a fantastic gelateria called Carraia in one corner and a great trattoria called Dante in another. The Duomo and main shopping areas in Via de Tournabouni and Via Calzaiuoli are just a 10-minute walk away. Paola saw me off on my last day and we had a nice chat. I'll definitely stay here again if I ever get a chance.

Also see: How to choose an AirBNB Rental

A Moment in the Sun with Casa Artusi

*A portion of this appeared in the September 2015 issue of Mabuhay magazine

When Margarita Fores, one of the Philippines’ foremost restaurateurs and a known locavore, invites you to a farm visit and a cooking demonstration, you don’t say no. Never mind that it’s the height of summer near the equator and your chances of a full-on migraine by the end of the day are almost certain. Gaita, as she is fondly called, knows what it means to eat well and she is willing to travel the distance to make sure that her cooking makes the most impact on the plate, not on the environment. With that in mind, I joined Casa Artusi’s first Divertimento in Fattoria (Fun in the Farm) and welcomed my moment in the sun.



En route to the farm, Gaita shared the story of Pellegrino Artusi, father of modern Italian cooking and author of La Scienza in Cucina e l'Arte di Mangiare Bene (The Science of Cooking and the Art of Eating Well), a culinary treasure trove of almost 800 recipes culled from home cooks in every corner of Italy. The renowned culinary center, Casa Artusi, was founded in his name in his hometown of Forlimpopoli in Northen Italy. Gaita collaborated with the center to put up in the Philippines its first and only offshore campus.



We met up with the owners of Kalye Luntian, our first farm stop, at Breakfast at Antonio’s where Gaita called our attention to the wooden crate boxes piled with brightly hued, freshly picked greens that were on sale at the restaurant.



Kalye Luntian in Alfonso, Cavite grows beautiful rows of kale, lettuce, basil, and an assortment of other vegetables. Having gotten into farming by first becoming a research unit for a Dutch company, owner Pepoy Songco and Carlo Amoranto put a lot of science into their process, comparing for instance the quality of vegetables grown on soil alone while exposed to the elements, with those bedded out on organic compost within the controlled environment of a greenhouse. In this terrestrial lab, science always proves victorious.



We went agog over the lush harvest of peppers and heirloom tomatoes from Kalye Luntian’s Batangas farm.



We did our produce shopping at the greenhouse where different varieties of lettuce were growing zealously in nutrient-rich, composted soil. The romaines, lolo rosas and frisees we took home were literally plucked from the ground.



My mouth was watering for Parmesan kale chips as I stared at Kalye Luntian’s bed of Italian kale.



At our next stop, Malipayon Farms, we got to plant French beans from seeds and lettuce from seedlings.




While Kalye Luntian gets some of their best harvests from their greenhouse, Malipayon prefers to grow their greens out in the open and let nature do its job. Two different “parenting styles” but equally valid and, based on empirical results also known as our taste test, with equally great results!



We enjoyed pulling out carrots from the ground and comparing their sizes, which ranged from index finger to forearm dimensions. Above, my sister in law Joy shows off her harvest.

How to choose a vacation rental or an AirBNB home

Since I booked my first vacation rental in Honolulu six or so years ago, I’ve become a fan of this type of accommodation. Online, I chanced upon a dreamy place in Waikiki that had plantation-style architecture and a partial view of the beach, and at $150 a night, it was a steal. I was a bit disconcerted upon arrival when I saw that work was being done in the hallway but when I stepped inside the unit, I was relieved to find the studio as I had imagined it to be—perhaps even
better, because the owners were thoughtful enough to leave a basket of Hawaii-made goodies on the table and stock up the cabinets with helpful guidebooks and DVDs of movies shot in Hawaii (50 First Dates!). When I opened the closet, there were foldable beach chairs, snorkeling gear, beach towels and toys—things you’ll most likely need if you were to spend a family holiday in Hawaii with kids in tow.

Since then, I made it a point to check out apartment rentals whenever I have an extended trip (i.e. longer than five days). Hotel rooms are worth the splurge for short stays where I can’t be bothered to carry my own luggage or I expect to spend days in bed in blissful languor sustained by room service and in-room massage. Otherwise, rentals are a practical choice, and some are so lovely you’d wish you lived in them.



Good rentals are not easy to find. I remember spending hours of research on the computer before finding something worth shortlisting. This was years before AirBNB came into the scene and changed everything.

I used AirBNB for the first time last September when I went to France and Italy for a vacation. As a first-time user, I didn’t know if I was getting the real deal but I found the registration process reassuring. You can’t fake your identity because you have to submit an official identification, which is
authenticated by a software.

Of course I still had to scour thousands of listings, especially in Paris, which is a big city. But there were filter tools that made the process more manageable. In Paris, for instance, I knew I wanted to stay at the Left Bank, in the area of St Germain de Pres. So I applied the filter and used the map to
check out every listing in the area. I also filtered the price and number of rooms to cut the list down further.



Model and blogger Kim Jones stayed at the above AirBNB rental in Paris. Isn’t it a dream?

While in Positano, I was drawn to this sculpture by G. Bosco, which was on display at the Franco Senesi art gallery. I thought of you @ledbeltran. I was equally moved by the works of Marco Grassi. Kudos to the curator. #FrancoSenesiFineArt #Positano #Italy #MarcoGrassi #GBosco #ArtObjects

Leather goods are some of the best things to buy in Florence. According to Frommer’s, shopping here is better than in Rome. I can only agree. #MadeinFlorence #leathergoods #ShoppinginEurope #Firenze #Italy

My last stop: Vatican City. #Vatican #Rome #Italy #travelswithgusto

I was drawn to this small sandwich joint named LikeEat because of the picture of a Porchetta di Ariccia in full roasting glory at the door. And I didn’t regret it. Olive oil, balsamico, arugula and porchetta. Perfetto. #Rome #Italy #LikeEatRoma #travelswithgusto #foodandwine

Trastevere, my favorite neighborhood in Rome, made even lovelier by the light of the full moon. #Rome #Italy #Trastevere #travelandleisure #travelswithgusto

The food gods must have smiled at me that day because they gave me two wonderful meals in one day: the seafood spaghetti at Chez Black and this glorious saltimbocca at Ristorante Agrodolce near the Trevi fountain. Molto buono! #Rome #Italy #RistoranteAgrodolce #saltimbocca #foodandwine

Ahh, Positano. You’re the kind of place where great love stories are written. #Positano #Italy #travelandleisure #travelswithgusto

Our tour group made a lunch stop at this place in Positano where I had one of the best meals of my life. Spaghetti with scampi and mixed seafood. Pasta, olive oil, garlic, cherry tomatoes, shrimps, squid, mussels and clams elevated to new heights. I swept the plate clean and wanted seconds. #ChezBlack #Positano #Italy #Pasta #travelswithgusto

My favorite experience during my stay in Rome was going out of Rome to the breathtaking Amalfi Coast. #BestDriveEver #TLPicks #AmalfiCoast #Italy #travelswithgusto

Seeing the Colosseo with my own eyes was quite overwhelming. #Rome #Italy #Colosseo #Gladiator

Cooling myself with a Gelateria Dondoli gelato at San Gimignano. #gelato #SanGimignano #Tuscany #Italy #travelandleisure #travelswithgusto

Gelato by master maker Sergio Dondoli of San Gimignano. His gelato is regarded by many as the best in the world because of the international awards he has won. The world’s best gelato in 2014 went to France but that doesn’t make these Dondoli creations any less good. #gelato #Tuscany #Italy #epicurious #travelswithgusto

Now I know what it means to be “under the Tuscan sun.” I had lunch at a farm looking out to this view of the Tuscan hills and San Gimignano. Rarely do I see a sight so sublime. #Tuscany #SanGimignano #Italy #travelandleisure

Finally, rice. An amazing osso bucco and risotto at Trattoria Pizzeria Dante in Florence. #Firenze #Italy #Florence #epicurious

Pit stop at Pitti Palace. #Firenze #Florence #Italy #travelswithgusto

A lovely view of Firenze from Piazzale Michelangelo. It was a bit of a hike up but what a reward. There’s Ponte Vecchio bridge on the left, then the three tall structures are Palazzo Vecchio, the Duomo and Santa Croce. #Firenze #Florence #Italy #TLPicks #travelswithgusto

What a beauty you are, Firenze. #Florence #Italy #Tuscany #TLPicks