Following My Nose in France and Italy

Colette’s novels and Ernest Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast lured me to Paris’s grand boulevards and cobbled lanes 21 years ago. The urge to pay another visit to France was resurrected by Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence.

Movies were not much help either. How can any girl watch Katherine Hepburn’s Summertime and not dream about jumping onto a Venetian vaporetto in her pleated skirt and button-down? Or Audrey Hepburn’s Roman Holiday and not be moony-eyed over Rome?

I imagined my second trip to Europe to be the extraordinary dovetailing of the real and the cinematic or literary. Around this reservoir of images and stories, my trip to France and Italy began to take form.

PARIS: THE STROLL

Starting the day at Rue de Lille. My petit dejeuner of baguette, brie, mimolette, chevre and espresso.

My first stop was Paris. Because I wanted to breathe the same hallowed air that Simone de Beauvoir and Hemingway breathed, I booked a perch at St. Germain de Pres. My building had no lift so I had to drag my luggage three floors up. My reward was a view of Karl Lagerfeld’s bookstore just down the street. At 20 sqm., the flat was tiny but well-planned, with closets discretely tucked into the walls, and a sofa bed that can turn into a double bed at night. A modern Boffi fan provided sufficient ventilation, assisted by tall windows on warm nights. The kitchenette had two induction hobs, which I never used, a toaster, where I warmed slices of baguette for breakfast, a coffee pod machine for my espresso and a personal refrigerator for my stash of cheeses.

These bouquinistes are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and take up more than three kilometers of the Seine riverbank.

Our merry band of tower gazers. The path to the Eiffel Tower is well grooved but who can resist its charms, especially in good, well-fed company, and at night when it is all lit up. Even more special was catching the light show at the first 10 minutes of the hour, and seeing a million diamonds dancing all over the tower.

At The Louvre, one of the largest museums in the world. Being that, it is overwhelming for everyone, including me. I made the experience manageable with a cheat. I downloaded an audio guide by Rick Steves, which gave me an overview of the highlights, which, of course, included the Mona Lisa.

The Winged Victory of Samothrace, one of the most majestic sight inside the Louvre.

My personal favorite sculpture was out on the streets, glistening under the midday sun—the gilded bronze figure of Jeanne d’Arc on horseback.

But the real worship took place here, at Angelina's, temple of molten chocolate pleasure. Shown here is Chocolat L’ Africain, considered by many to be the best hot chocolate in the world. As it was poured into my cup, everything came into focus. And as I drank the last drop, my satisfaction was complete.

Not even the best hot chocolate can make me skip a third cup of my favorite beverage. Un café crème, s’il vout plait? Here at Café de Flore, where one of the best people-watching can be had. The latter is, evidently, an acceptable pastime in Paris, where people are less inclined to sit across each other at a table than beside each other with unobstructed views of the sidewalk, the street, and the people passing by.

Up Next: Paris: The Scooter Ride
Related:  My AirBNB Picks in France and Italy
               How to Choose an AirBNB Rental

My AirBNB Picks in France and Italy

PARIS: Carlo Ninchi’s Apartment



The 1950s building had no lift so I had to drag my luggage three floors up. My reward was a view of Karl Lagerfeld’s bookstore just down the street. At 20 sqm., the flat was tiny but well-planned, with storage discreetly tucked into the walls, and a sofa bed that can be turned into a double bed. A modern Boffi fan provided sufficient ventilation, assisted by tall windows on warm nights. The kitchenette had two induction hobs, which I never used; a toaster, where I warmed slices of baguette for breakfast; a coffee pod machine for my espresso (a box of Nespresso capsules was provided); and a personal refrigerator for my stash of cheeses and a small complimentary bottle of Champagne. There were heavy drapes to ensure a good night's rest.

The best thing about this place is its location. Turn a corner and you'll find the Louvre just across. You could get to and from the St. Germain de Pres metro in 10 minutes. This place is ideal for 2 people with medium luggage. There is no closet space so you'll have to keep your clothes in your luggage, which will eat up significant floor space. The condition of the place is not as pristine as shown in its AirBNB photos, but well-maintained overall.

AIX-EN-PROVENCE: Eric Perraud’s Flat



I could have stayed forever in Aix and part of the lure was staying at this apartment. Sure, I had things to complain about, such as the tiny toilet, the low showerhead in the bath and the low headroom in the mezzanine. But the place had a lived-in look that gave it character. The tall windows let in the sound of the church bell tolling the hour and a soft breeze that allowed my laundry to dry. It also offered a view of Aix’s red-tiled rooftops. The apartment was quiet but the minute I stepped out of the building, I was in one of the narrow, cobblestoned pedestrian lanes of Aix with charming restaurants and cafes in every cozy corner. With a quick right and left turns, I was in Aix’s grand central street, the Cours Mirabeau and the rotonde.



Mahe, the property manager, was very warm and welcoming. She gave me a tour of the place and gave me recommendations on where to eat. She made it a point to mention that there was a daily open-air market by the town hall, something I was very keen on checking out.

VENICE: Paolo Brunetti’s Casa Sofia



Paolo gave me very clear instructions on how to get to his apartment and, when I arrived, he was personally there to hand over the keys, show me his place and give me advice on interesting places to visit during my stay (all of which I was able to do, including visiting the Jewish ghetto!). He even helped me with my luggage, which I badly needed because his place was on the top floor (4th floor) with narrow stairs.



And his place? Wow. Plenty of space (80 sqm.) and character, with hardbound art books and a tasteful CD collection. The bed was very comfortable, the bathroom seemed new and the entire place was spotless. The apartment is equipped with air-conditioning, heating, TV and a washing machine. The double-paned windows completely shut off the noise from the busy street. I enjoyed opening them in the morning for some people-watching. The apartment overlooks Strada Nuova, which has plenty of shops, bars and restaurants. The location was perfect for me because I liked being in the middle of the action without getting caught up in the rumpus in Piazza San Marco and the Rialto. A 10-minute walk will get you to the Rialto Bridge. Just a few meters away, you can catch a vaporetto at the Ca’ d’Oro stop to take you to Piazza San Marco.

FLORENCE: Martina and Paola’s River-view Apartment



I wasn't able to meet Martina personally because she was in London but weeks prior to my trip, she sent me her mom Paola's number so that I could make arrangements regarding my arrival. I had a hard time reaching Paola through SMS but when I was finally able to talk to her on the phone, I liked her immediately. All the more so when I met her. She was very warm and welcoming.



My heart melted the minute I saw the apartment. It was the loveliest AirBNB I had ever stayed in. The interiors were so tastefully done. It was spacious, very clean, and well equipped, as if the owners had anticipated all I'll need during my vacation. And when I stepped onto the balcony, I had a view of the bridge over Arno River. I took a cab from Santa Maria Novella train station because it was drizzling when I arrived. It was so near that I only had to pay 8.50 euros.



I loved the location. There was a fantastic gelateria called Carraia in one corner and a great trattoria called Dante in another. The Duomo and main shopping areas in Via de Tournabouni and Via Calzaiuoli are just a 10-minute walk away. Paola saw me off on my last day and we had a nice chat. I'll definitely stay here again if I ever get a chance.

Also see: How to choose an AirBNB Rental

How to choose a vacation rental or an AirBNB home

Since I booked my first vacation rental in Honolulu six or so years ago, I’ve become a fan of this type of accommodation. Online, I chanced upon a dreamy place in Waikiki that had plantation-style architecture and a partial view of the beach, and at $150 a night, it was a steal. I was a bit disconcerted upon arrival when I saw that work was being done in the hallway but when I stepped inside the unit, I was relieved to find the studio as I had imagined it to be—perhaps even
better, because the owners were thoughtful enough to leave a basket of Hawaii-made goodies on the table and stock up the cabinets with helpful guidebooks and DVDs of movies shot in Hawaii (50 First Dates!). When I opened the closet, there were foldable beach chairs, snorkeling gear, beach towels and toys—things you’ll most likely need if you were to spend a family holiday in Hawaii with kids in tow.

Since then, I made it a point to check out apartment rentals whenever I have an extended trip (i.e. longer than five days). Hotel rooms are worth the splurge for short stays where I can’t be bothered to carry my own luggage or I expect to spend days in bed in blissful languor sustained by room service and in-room massage. Otherwise, rentals are a practical choice, and some are so lovely you’d wish you lived in them.



Good rentals are not easy to find. I remember spending hours of research on the computer before finding something worth shortlisting. This was years before AirBNB came into the scene and changed everything.

I used AirBNB for the first time last September when I went to France and Italy for a vacation. As a first-time user, I didn’t know if I was getting the real deal but I found the registration process reassuring. You can’t fake your identity because you have to submit an official identification, which is
authenticated by a software.

Of course I still had to scour thousands of listings, especially in Paris, which is a big city. But there were filter tools that made the process more manageable. In Paris, for instance, I knew I wanted to stay at the Left Bank, in the area of St Germain de Pres. So I applied the filter and used the map to
check out every listing in the area. I also filtered the price and number of rooms to cut the list down further.



Model and blogger Kim Jones stayed at the above AirBNB rental in Paris. Isn’t it a dream?

And with this pot of moules mariniere just for me, I say au revoir to Nice. #latapenadedenice #Nice #France #Frenchcuisineisthebest #travelswithgusto #travelandleisure

So walk I did. #PlaceMassena #Nice #France #travelswithgusto

Place Massena was made for walking. #Nice #France #travelandleisure #travelswithgusto

The first thing I ate in Nice: a pissaladiere, a French pizza topped with caramelized onions, onions and whole anchovies! #Nice #France #travelswithgusto #epicurious

Goodbye, ochre. Hello, pastels. #nice #france #travelswithgusto #travelandleisure

Hello, Marseilles. #daytrip #france #provence #travelswithgusto #travelandleisure

I can never get enough of those ochre walls. Au revoir, Aix. Till we meet again. #aixenprovence #france #travelandleisure #travelswithgusto

Croque monsieur with a view. #aixenprovence #france #travelswithgusto #epicurious

Nothing like going to a Provençal market to start the day right. #aixenprovence #france #travelswithgusto

Practicing the art of the flaneur at Aix. #aixenprovence #france #goodkingrene #travelswithgusto

The foie gras to rule them all at Bistrot des Philosophes. #aixenprovence #foiegras #bistrotdesphilosophes #france #epicurious

The crowd led me to a cluster of restaurants at Forums de Cardeurs. One of them is Bistrot des Philosophes where I had one of the best meals of my life. #aixenprovence #france #forumsdecardeurs #bistrotdesphilosophes

I was lost among the quiet alleyways of Aix in search for Forum des Cardeurs when this crowd found me and led me to the place I was looking for. #aixenprovence #france #followthecrowd #travelswithgusto

In the footsteps of Cezanne. #aixenprovence #france #travelswithgusto #travelandleisure

Be still my heart. #aix-en-provence #france #travelswithgusto #travelandleisure