My AirBNB Picks in France and Italy

PARIS: Carlo Ninchi’s Apartment



The 1950s building had no lift so I had to drag my luggage three floors up. My reward was a view of Karl Lagerfeld’s bookstore just down the street. At 20 sqm., the flat was tiny but well-planned, with storage discreetly tucked into the walls, and a sofa bed that can be turned into a double bed. A modern Boffi fan provided sufficient ventilation, assisted by tall windows on warm nights. The kitchenette had two induction hobs, which I never used; a toaster, where I warmed slices of baguette for breakfast; a coffee pod machine for my espresso (a box of Nespresso capsules was provided); and a personal refrigerator for my stash of cheeses and a small complimentary bottle of Champagne. There were heavy drapes to ensure a good night's rest.

The best thing about this place is its location. Turn a corner and you'll find the Louvre just across. You could get to and from the St. Germain de Pres metro in 10 minutes. This place is ideal for 2 people with medium luggage. There is no closet space so you'll have to keep your clothes in your luggage, which will eat up significant floor space. The condition of the place is not as pristine as shown in its AirBNB photos, but well-maintained overall.

AIX-EN-PROVENCE: Eric Perraud’s Flat



I could have stayed forever in Aix and part of the lure was staying at this apartment. Sure, I had things to complain about, such as the tiny toilet, the low showerhead in the bath and the low headroom in the mezzanine. But the place had a lived-in look that gave it character. The tall windows let in the sound of the church bell tolling the hour and a soft breeze that allowed my laundry to dry. It also offered a view of Aix’s red-tiled rooftops. The apartment was quiet but the minute I stepped out of the building, I was in one of the narrow, cobblestoned pedestrian lanes of Aix with charming restaurants and cafes in every cozy corner. With a quick right and left turns, I was in Aix’s grand central street, the Cours Mirabeau and the rotonde.



Mahe, the property manager, was very warm and welcoming. She gave me a tour of the place and gave me recommendations on where to eat. She made it a point to mention that there was a daily open-air market by the town hall, something I was very keen on checking out.

VENICE: Paolo Brunetti’s Casa Sofia



Paolo gave me very clear instructions on how to get to his apartment and, when I arrived, he was personally there to hand over the keys, show me his place and give me advice on interesting places to visit during my stay (all of which I was able to do, including visiting the Jewish ghetto!). He even helped me with my luggage, which I badly needed because his place was on the top floor (4th floor) with narrow stairs.



And his place? Wow. Plenty of space (80 sqm.) and character, with hardbound art books and a tasteful CD collection. The bed was very comfortable, the bathroom seemed new and the entire place was spotless. The apartment is equipped with air-conditioning, heating, TV and a washing machine. The double-paned windows completely shut off the noise from the busy street. I enjoyed opening them in the morning for some people-watching. The apartment overlooks Strada Nuova, which has plenty of shops, bars and restaurants. The location was perfect for me because I liked being in the middle of the action without getting caught up in the rumpus in Piazza San Marco and the Rialto. A 10-minute walk will get you to the Rialto Bridge. Just a few meters away, you can catch a vaporetto at the Ca’ d’Oro stop to take you to Piazza San Marco.

FLORENCE: Martina and Paola’s River-view Apartment



I wasn't able to meet Martina personally because she was in London but weeks prior to my trip, she sent me her mom Paola's number so that I could make arrangements regarding my arrival. I had a hard time reaching Paola through SMS but when I was finally able to talk to her on the phone, I liked her immediately. All the more so when I met her. She was very warm and welcoming.



My heart melted the minute I saw the apartment. It was the loveliest AirBNB I had ever stayed in. The interiors were so tastefully done. It was spacious, very clean, and well equipped, as if the owners had anticipated all I'll need during my vacation. And when I stepped onto the balcony, I had a view of the bridge over Arno River. I took a cab from Santa Maria Novella train station because it was drizzling when I arrived. It was so near that I only had to pay 8.50 euros.



I loved the location. There was a fantastic gelateria called Carraia in one corner and a great trattoria called Dante in another. The Duomo and main shopping areas in Via de Tournabouni and Via Calzaiuoli are just a 10-minute walk away. Paola saw me off on my last day and we had a nice chat. I'll definitely stay here again if I ever get a chance.

Also see: How to choose an AirBNB Rental

Mitsuyado Sei-Men: House of Tsukemen

I make it a point to try something random from time to time so when I arrived 30 minutes early for an appointment in Makati, I decided to swing by Jupiter St. to look for a new restaurant to try. Mitsuyado Sei-Men’s signage got me at its tagline, “House of Tsukemen.” I wondered, what is tsukemen?

When I stepped inside, I didn't expect to see the above interiors. It transported immediately to a corner of old-world Japan clustered with lantern-lit yatais that had steam rising off their kitchens. Yatais are mobile open-air food stalls that usually open at night and are carted away during the day.

The tsukemen

Tsukemen is a Japanese noodle dish where the noodles and broth are served in separate bowls. The serving style is not its only unique characteristic. Typically, tsukemen noodles, which are fat strings made of cake flour, are served cold, at which they are at their most al dente. You can also opt to have them served warm or hot. I had mine warm, and they were as chewy as I wanted them to be.

The broth of the spicy tsukemen had just enough kick to make my nose run slightly without blunting my taste buds. It was denser and heartier than ramen soup, making it perfect for dipping.

To eat, grab a hunk of noodles with your chopsticks and dip it in the broth, allowing the silken liquid to coat every string.

Searching online after my visit, I discovered Mitsuyado Sei-Men’s gyoza has been earning rave reviews, so there will certainly be another visit for me.

Mitsuyado Sei-Men
Monday to Sundays:11 a.m. - 11 p.m.
No. 22 Jupiter Street, Bel Air, Makati City
Phone 632-511-1390; 632-511-1759

Second branch:
Blue Bay Walk, EDSA Cor. Macapagal Ave. Pasay City
Phone 632-843-4329

Chef Tatung's Lechon na Crispy Pata at Alab

The food @cheftatung serves at Alab is honest to goodness Pinoy, slow-cooked and soul-satisfying, livened with regional inflections. Shown here is his lechon na crispy pata, fork-tender pork knuckles stuffed with lemongrass and leeks. He handles his accents with restraint, staying true to familiar Filipino flavors while experimenting with novel combinations.

Alab by Chef Tatung

What Quezon City lacks in highbrow dining, it makes up for in bravado. Just look at the wave of upstarts in Maginhawa, Cubao Expo, Katipunan and South Triangle by chefs and entrepreneurs aspiring to build their own legends. One of the savants of the QC dining scene is @cheftatung who gained a following at his Maginhawa private dining post before moving to BGC. He retraces his roots with the opening of Alab in QC where you can feel his passion for Filipino cooking alive and burning.

A Garden of Delights

 

Two kilometers of narrow, flower-paved road from the entrance of Buck Estate, there lies a garden so lush and colorful, it is therapy to everyone who goes there. A sweep of crimson, a wash of canary, a brush of tangerine, a ripple of lavender. Colors spring from their cages, tumbling along vines of green and spilling into pathways lit with stained-glass bulb covers. Magic happens at Sonya’s Garden. Everyone who comes, leaves with a more vibrant plume. - Written by Joan Bulauitan, Photograph by Keith Sundiang  

For inquiries on the book, contact Sonya's Garden